ABTW: Since the SeaFarer only gets beach time wear, what else do you like to wear in a normal week?
The HUB6016 is manually wound with 115 hours of power reserve (about 4.8 days, which Hublot rounds up to 5 days). There is a new style of power reserve indicator on the dial near 9 o'clock. It isn't meant to be the world's most covert power reserve indicator, but it uses a turning disc versus a hand. I do like it when a manually wound movement has a power reserve indicator, especially when they have a longer time in between winding periods. The movement operates at 3Hz (21.600 bph) and is produced from 175 parts.
Watches such as those in the G-Shock collection are also famously hard to break. Casio has a well-earned reputation for creating dependable timekeepers, but the question is why they stopped at that? Even though your average digital Casio watch has a slew of features related to telling the time and in some instances sensors such as a compass or barometer, why did Casio not work to integrate additional technologies into their products?
We will have to see how the Eterna Caliber 39 performs in the long run, both in terms of reliability and of course in overall success. Beyond what is expected to be a slight premium over other options (like Sellita movements) a bottleneck may be Eterna's manufacturing capacity, as they started out by producing just 5,000 Eterna Caliber 39 units in 2013, with production being raised to about 20,000 per annum soon. That, of course, is nowhere near ETA figures – but I do hope to see the Eterna Caliber 39 (in one of its 88 variations) in more and more watches in the more affordable price segment. eterna-movement.com
If you haven't been following the details of the watch industry like we have, you may have missed the fact that in 2007, Tiffany & Co. entered into a very comprehensive agreement with the Swatch Group to design and produce Tiffany & Co. watches. Each company entered into the agreement with the best of intentions, but it didn't work out and resulted in some costly (and still ongoing as of the time of writing) legal proceedings which I covered in detail here on aBlogtoWatch and also here on Forbes. The fallout left the Swatch Group looking for another brand so that they could produce jewelry watches (so they purchased Harry Winston, an American company), and Tiffany & Co. quietly announced that they would be producing watches under their own umbrella again at some point in the future.
The pick of the bunch for me is the Dodane Type 23 Flyback Chronograph. This watch may not set the world alight with crazy styling, but its internal hardware is enough to get true watchmakers going. It is a handsome sports watch with the same layout as its fluorescent brother. One major difference, though, is the presence of a Flyback complication which enables the chronograph to be stopped and reset with a single push of a button, which is particularly useful for timing very small increments accurately. Priced at €5,100 the only thing that might improve the aesthetic in my mind would be the addition of a NATO strap. If you're wondering what that might look like on this case, you needn't wonder for long...
As was the case with our first article in this series, our goal here is not to discuss the brand or even the watch in great detail – we have done that in a separate article before. You may read more about Aaron Becsei and his work in our workshop visit article, here. For now, our attention will be dedicated to those interesting – and in most cases extremely fine – details that render the works of such watchmakers relevant and, to some collectors, of high value. Now, for two paragraphs, allow me to get a little sidetracked, in an effort to try and put what independents mean into context for those who are less familiar with this minuscule group of master craftsmen in the industry.
Matt Smith-Johnson: With the ZOT, it was the bright colours and Silberstein-esque design for sure… That watch had a huge impact on my life, as I’m a very visual person. Even if you look at the branding for Teenage Grandpa, or on my personal website, its influence on the colour scheme and overall appearance should be apparent.
The Max Bill by Junghans range does something strange to my brain. When you encounter a Junghans Max Bill watch for the first time, you might not know what to say. But why? They are not bizarre like an MB&F, Panda-piloted twin-turbine; they don't perform an optical illusion a la Ressence Type 3; they're not even made of an unusual material like a Richard Mille or a Schofield Blacklamp. No, it's because it feels like you've seen them a hundred times before, only you're not quite sure. They are almost a blueprint - a model of restraint. It's so easy to "get it" immediately. This is because the Junghans Max Bill is, in my opinion, an example of excellent design.
ABTW: As a business, do you sponsor or participate in any local events, watch-related or otherwise?
Mickey Nolan: For me, the best thing Omega have done is the Aqua Terra with the Co-Axial caliber 8508. It’s full of silicon parts and non-ferromagnetic parts, so it doesn’t rely on an anti-magnetic case like the Rolex Milgauss. It’s 15 times more resistant to magnetism than the Milgauss.
For not a lot of money, Bulova has been offering an exciting and useful movement, pretty solid designs, as well as inspiration from their past. For watch lovers on a budget who want something that still has a refined look to them, Bulova is increasingly offering a lot of good options. Prices are 5 for the Bulova Accutron II Military 96B229, 0 for the Bulova Accutron II Lobster 96B232, and 0 for the Bulova Accutron II Sea King Chronograph 98B243. bulova.com
The quartz-based Grand Seiko SBGX models are resistant to 40,000 A/m, which I am assuming is 500 Gauss. I am not sure why the two models have different ratings, but I am guessing it has something to do with the movements and perhaps the thickness of the cases. I am pretty sure that both are equally suited to resist the effect of magnetic fields most people may encounter on a regular or even occasional basis.
Along that path is another interesting "innovation" from the brand for 2015 that is worth bringing up as an example of what luxury watch makers are prone to getting excited about. One of the 2015 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon watches comes with a "gem-set rubber bezel" (ref. DBEX0480). This 45mm-wide black DLC-coated titanium watch has a rubber coated bezel that is also set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds (about 2.24 carats worth). The large sparkling stones contrast with the matte black surface of the rubber in a way that melds a degree of sportiness with jewelry romance. You either "get it" or you don't, but it is interesting to understand who this product is intended for. Inside the watch is the in-house made and manually-wound Roger Dubuis caliber RD505SQ skeletonized movement with the time and flying tourbillon. It exists as a limited edition of 88 pieces.
Jack Ryan: Just like watch lovers anywhere else, but they are smart watch buyers and collectors. I am impressed every week with the young engineer or software developer that comes in the store looking to buy his first good watch. Most often, it is NOMOS, and they have really done their homework prior to entering the store for the first time. They know the movement calibres, they know the reference numbers, they know the history of the company; and they know what they want. The Internet has really changed the watch buyer, and you can see it reflected in this group of people. It has been said the Web has put an end to impulse shopping, and these guys make be believe it. It also appears that we may be ending the era of traditional retail “up selling.” Most of our customers know what they are looking for, in terms of functionality, brand, and price point.
Timeless Luxury Watches, an authorized Nomos Glashütte watches dealer in Texas, is releasing a new exclusive model which is the product of a collaboration between Timeless and Nomos watches in Germany. The aptly named Nomos "Timeless Club" watch is the result of that collaboration, a highly modified incarnation of the existing Nomos Club line that not only introduces new styling and colors, but will also co-introduce a new movement with Nomos’ own Metro Datum.
If your idea of an ideal watch store is one that is owned and operated by a practicing watchmaker and one that carries interesting watch brands, then be sure to stop by Orlando Watch Co. in central Florida the next time vacation or business brings you to the land of Mickey Mouse and Harry Potter (although I don't know that there is an iconic Harry Potter watch - yet).
The movement is manually wound and has a power reserve of 65 hours operating at a modest 2.5Hz (18,000 bph). This slower frequency is sometimes desired for tourbillons, as it allows for a greater visual appreciation of the oscillating balance wheel. The free-spring balance wheel is further fitted with a Spiral Straumann balance spring that has a Philips curve. In addition to the time, the movement also offers a date indicator disc whose window is at 3 o'clock on the dial.