I realize that many of you are seeing an MCT watch for the first time, so what is happening on the dial may be confusing. Well, allow me to explain: The watch indicates the hour at four points around the dial via turning triangular louvers. Between them all 12 hours can be displayed. There is a traditional minute hand that goes around the dial, and when a new hour comes the C-shaped window in the middle of the case pivots one position clockwise to point to the next set of louvers that display the current hour. The system is not only legible because of the digital hour system, but because of how easy it is to see all the information. This is pure time telling art, and very much a success despite being so unorthodox.
An easy watch for IWC lovers to enjoy is this new model in the Ingenieur collection that incorporates a lot of what we enjoy about the brand. This may be the first time, or among the few times that IWC has used its rattrapante movement in an Ingenieur piece. Rattrapante is a fancy name for a split second chronograph, or as IWC refers to it in this watch, a "Double Chronograph."
Rather than having the skulls and snakes motif of the Chaos watch, the Montegrappa My Guardian Angel has angel wings and clouds as engraved case decoration. The dial is ringed with a sun flare style design which is associated with the sun and diving light. The dial is similar to the Chaos watch, but a bit simpler and lighter here. I really like the swirly could patterns engraved in the central part of the dial which is done in mother-of-pearl.
It is widely communicated – and hence generally accepted – that complete vertical integration (i.e., producing everything in-house) is superior to other manufacturing methods. In some cases, that is actually true, and we have seen that work out beautifully for some brands. However, when it comes to some truly high-end watches with extraordinary technological solutions, produced in relatively limited runs, investing in having specially designed cases, movement parts, dials and everything else made in-house is practically impossible. Instead, what most of these brands will do is work with some of the best specialized suppliers in Switzerland.
We went on to talk about the pros and cons of bronze cases and that this particular bronze was an alloy of bronze and aluminum to make it a bit harder and better for the skin. He thought it was really interesting how bronze developed a patina, and of course that this element was super fashionable. It got me thinking, the Ancon Magnus really is a fashion watch, and perhaps that isn't a bad thing. In a sense, the design isn't meant to be wholly original (as most fashion isn't), but rather a curated assortment of bits and pieces put together in a novel manner.
Christopher Ward is a brand that should not be a stranger to most readers. Based in London, it has been offering reasonably priced and high value for money mechanical and quartz watches for quite some time. However, following news that ETA is about to completely stop supplying its movements to external companies (with a few exceptions), the brand decided that it needed to take matters into its own hands. The result is Christopher Ward's brand new and very own in-house made caliber SH21, as debuted in its new C9 Harrison 5-Day Automatic watch. It does not happen everyday that you see a new in-house movement, let alone at such a competitive price point. Watch out, NOMOS!
Graff unveiled its line of luxury timepieces in 2009, and now boasts 50 models in 5 collections: Technical, Sport, Evening, Jeweled, and Bespoke. Graff is the creator of the intriguing MasterGraff Grand Date Dual Time Tourbillon which incorporates three different complications into a single timepiece: The flying tourbillon, dual time function, and grand date. Why have I mentioned this triple complication timepiece by Graff? Because I cannot fathom why Graff created a fifty-five million dollar timepiece with a quartz movement. I must admit the quartz movement seemed almost like an afterthought, whereby an exceedingly expensive bracelet quite suddenly became a watch. Perhaps Laurence Graff wanted a diminutive dial so as not to detract from the rarity of the gemstones. Perhaps certain ladies of great worth do not care for mechanical mastery, but rather the glitter of diamonds. After all, did Marilyn Monroe not say, "Diamonds are a girls best friend?" Or perhaps only a quartz movement could fit into the structure of the bracelet without unduly distressing the careful placement of 110 ct of rare colored diamonds.
As to the silver plating, both Glashütte Original Senator Chronometers use a vintage technique called l’argenture grainée. The goal of the finish is to achieve a look that is textured but not distractingly shiny. In order to accomplish this, the following steps are performed. First, the surface of the brass dial is machine-blasted with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a silver powder and water paste is applied by hand to the blasted surface.
3. What's The Deal With Big Watch Sizes? The Large Timepiece Explained
Ferdinand Berthoud was a contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Both were Swiss and both moved to Paris to produce clocks and watches for civil, military, and scientific use. Many of Berthoud's creations are still in existence today, and some have been sold at auction for a tidy sum. Though if a new brand incarnation of his persona were to become successful, then it reasons that his work will be valued even more. Chopard reportedly purchased the rights to the name in 2006 and has been working on the launch of the brand since then. It will finally debut with its initial timepiece creations in 2014.
One look at the dial and the watch is immediately recognizable as a Monaco Historique piece, but there are many changes to be found there as well. My favorite addition is use of black-coated hands filled with lume versus standard polished metal hands (even though Chopard does them very well with a diamond polish). Against the lighter dial the black hands ought to offer an excellent level of legibility. In fact, the mixture of yellow, black, and white/silver tones on the dial should make for a very easy to read timepiece. Another new element are the hour markers. Now Arabic numeral minute markers intersect them for a novel look. The dial also has a brand new flange ring and other minor details and upgrades that are all welcome. In my opinion, Chopard almost always does a good job at making its Classic Racing collection watches conform to traditional rules of proportion and legibility, while also making them just so darn refined.
It would be wrong to deny Cartier the honor of being highly innovative over the last several years in regard to its most exclusive timepiece creations. To be actually innovative and come up with something new in a mechanical watch takes serious effort and luck. It has been uttered to me on more than one occasion that what can be done in a watch has been done, and furthermore, that all a watchmaker can do today is interpret and play with previously invented concepts. So when you see something new, no matter how whimsical or playful in a luxury watch, it is a worth one's attention.
At this point the Hotblack smartwatch is still in a prototype phase with the launch campaign starting on June 23 and again, the finished product will start shipping around October. Although it is a bit of a shame to see this watch miss out on the World Cup itself, we feel that the hardcore watch fan looking for a cool and actually useful gadget to track his/her favorite team should make up for that delay. Ultimately, the Hotblack smartwatch will cost £990 or around ,650 , with early bird prices ranging from around 5 to ,175. hotblacklondon.com
PJ: I think I am reckless enough to pursue the grail no matter what, but sometimes, you know, dreams are evolving and priorities are changing. Ultimately, it's about passion. The grail is not the one that we own, but the next one down the line. And believe me - the upcoming DB28 Maxi Chronograph should be something closer!
The new case is actually pretty nice. Even though it is a bit dressy being all polished, it still has sporty elements. Those include the integrated crown guards as well as the inset sections on the sides of the case. ArtyA had and will continue to have a lot of success with their larger 47mm wide case, but for those who simply couldn't pull it off or wanted something a bit more mainstream, this new 44mm wide case will certainly please.
It is interesting to learn, and those who pursue similar creative activities can surely relate, that Potts prefers not to be constrained by pre-conceived ideas. In practice, this means that he either sets out to his realize his next project by starting out with a specific mechanism that he invented and wants to use, or by having an "end in mind" for which he sets out to develop a mechanism that would allow him to achieve that design.
The Master Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon breaks a different type of record being the world's thinnest watch that combines automatic winding, a tourbillon, and a minute repeater. The case is just 7.9mm thick, and none of its main features operate in a traditional manner. That means Jaeger-LeCoultre didn't just cram existing elements into a smaller movement and case size. Rather, they re-imagined and re-engineered the elements for this particular purpose.
Coming in at a price of ,600 on the new bracelet (or ,900 for the rubber strap), this is another sharp entry to the lineup, expanding your options with the new bracelet. clercwatches.com
Officially called the 144 St S Jubilee, while this new chronograph may look identical to the original 144, it actually boasts Sinn's TEGIMENT hardneded steel construction and a high grade black PVD finish. The original black 144 was not hardened and its black coating was actually chrome plating which was quite easily scratched. With a matching TEGIMENT steel and black PVD bracelet, Sinn has successfully updated the 144 without affecting its original and very successful design.
Apple has a history built up over the last fifteen years of selling an experience where everything the consumer interacts with, from the initial purchase to support, is meant to be meticulously executed. If they sell a wristwatch that isn't water resistant, isn't scratch or drop resistantant and have consumers entering the stores asking for managers to make exceptions to warranty policy over broken screens or moisture submersion, it's not going to go over well at all. Sapphire could play a big part in avoiding these concerns entirely, and if Apple does it, then it means other smartwatch makers will likely follow.
In addition to the steel model (ref. 03.2430.693/21.C723) is the black DLC-coated titanium case of the Red Baron limited edition (ref. 96.2430.693/21.C703). This cool model is limited to 500 pieces and has the term "Special" on the dial. It is only about ,000 more for the Red Baron version. There is also the 1903 limited edition (of 1.903 pieces) model (ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740) that has the same DLC titanium case but a special bund-style strap and aged-looking dial. Overall the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT is a great GMT watch and a great pilot with. With a friendly vintage style it has a fun demeanor while also being a serious high-end watch. That is perhaps the quality we most admire. Price for the steel model is ,900. zenith-watches.com