Tech specs from Maurice LaCroix
White lacquered dial with blued or rhodiumed hands
Small seconds with blued or red hand
- 43 mm case - satin-brushed and polished or sandblasted and anthracite PVD-finished stainless steel
- Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Exhibition back
- Water-resistant to 50 meters
- Manufacture ML230 calibre (automatic)
- 35 jewels
- 18,000 vibrations/hour (2.5 Hz)
- 50-hour power reserve
- Adorned with Clou de Paris and Côtes de Genève Colimaçon patterns or Grand Calimaçon and Côtes de Genève Colimaçon
- Brown crocodile with folding clasp or black with anthracite PVD-finish standard buckle
Manufactured in 1947 and sold in 1950, this piece (auctioned by Christie's in November, 2013) is one of three Reference 1563 that are known to exist. Based on the 1436, it is a bi-compax chronograph and it also has the waterproof screw-in case back of the 1436. The difference is to be found in the added feature and complication of the split-seconds chronograph mechanism. Such a complication is known as one of the most difficult to assemble and produce.
Part of the reason for this is that a symmetrical co-axial escapement takes up a bit more physical space. Of course this isn't much of an issue in a mechanism that is blown up 1000% from what it would be in a wrist watch. So if you are a mechanical movement nerd and appreciate the work of George Daniels (as I certainly do), you'll find what Nicholas Manousos has done to be of particular interest.
ABTW: What was your first grail watch?
The Vicenterra GMT-3 Volume 2 is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at ,800. vicenterra.ch
For the Tourbillon Barometer (yup, that's the name of the piece), Da Vindice has gone ahead and put an open-worked fleur de lys on top to indicate those seconds (as well as carry the brand logo). I like this, as it mixes up the standard arrowhead (which has innumerable variations), and marries practical use, design, and a bit of showmanship, all in one little piece. Next to it, a simple date display would simply disappear, generally. To ensure that doesn't happen here, we've got a pair of offset circles, giving us a sort of oblong look to the readout. Normally I'm not a fan of date displays like these, but here it kind of works. Or, to put it another way, if I had to have a display like this, it might as well be visually intriguing (which this one is).
Even though many of the aBlogtoWatch writers are fans of large timepieces the purpose of this article isn't to defend them or convince you to wear one. Our goal is to explain the reasons why timepieces for both men and women have become larger, and help consumers feel comfortable with the watch sizes that they prefer.
The Margot watch is further is available in either 18k white or 18k red gold with some color differences for each. Attached to the watch is a white alligator strap. As Christophe Claret's first foray in the world of whimsical women's jewelry watches I think he did a good job. I don't know how many women will want or appreciate the complexity, but at least it is a complexity in the form of a game that most anyone understands. The issue I posed at the beginning of this article seems more important though. Assuming a woman did not buy this for herself (though it could happen for sure), does she really need to ask herself these questions? Christophe Claret will produce just 20 pieces in each of the three versions of the Margot watch for a total of just 60 pieces total. Price is between 198,000 Swiss Francs (3 carats of diamonds) and 278,000 Swiss Francs (5.2 carats of diamonds). christopheclaret.com
I am pretty sure that the official name of this new Hublot Classic Fusion model is the "Classic Fusion 42mm Classico Ultra-Thin Shiny Dial." Did Hublot really need to add that extra "Classico" part of the name and is "Shiny Dial" really a term that fits with a high-end watch? You can come to your own conclusion on that but don't let it cloud your judgement on what might be one of the most interesting new Classic Fusion models in a long time. In fact, I would go so far as to say that this is really a "modern classic" for Hublot.
The function in question is a barometer and it is part of the 2014 Da Vindice Tourbillon Barometer timepiece. This is very similar in concept to the Breva Genie 01 watch from 2013 (hands-on here). You know, those things that are susceptible (by design) to changes in atmospheric pressure, and give a rudimentary sort of a local forecast? As a weather-telling device, barometers have always been fascinating to me. Implementing one into a wristwatch may not be the most logical thing to do, but it does make more sense than a temperature gauge (which requires you to have the watch off of your wrist for some time to get an accurate reading).
When it comes to watch brands as sponsors, some have direct connections to motorsports via their history (such as Tag Heuer, IWC, and of course Rolex) while other brands enter Formula One sponsorship for a host of other reasons that must extend beyond the simple need for advertising.
TFJ: What I think makes Topper Fine Jewelers a unique place in Northern California is the way we combine large well-known brands with more niche products. All of our partnerships are important, but our best selling brands are Omega, Zenith, Glashutte Original, Longines, Ball and Bremont. If I had to pick one watch that epitomized Burlingame it would be an 8500 calibre Omega Planet Ocean. Aesthetically beautiful, functional, low maintenance, and the more you closely examine its different elements, the more craftsmanship and narrative you see. topperjewelers.com
3. Use watch winders to keep your automatic watch collection in check. Have a larger collection? Don't waste your time winding them all each day when you can place them on watch winders so that they are ready to wear anytime.
We bring up the serious topic of why there is so much Hublot love and hate. John brings back the robot turd and we talk about Romain Jerome, MCT, and Richard Mille as well.
Quite frankly, we get a lot of Press Releases from start-up watch brands attempting to stir media enthusiasm about their new wares. While we do our due diligence to investigate and report on them to you, our dear readers, very few of them often generate much real excitement from the aBlogtoWatch team. The Challenger Black Luna, on the other hand, did just that – because it is something innovative that we have never seen before. And for that matter, neither has anyone else.
What is perhaps more interesting (and unknown) is what the future of Porsche Design watches will be. The Group claims that Porsche Design timepieces will undergo a "strategic realignment," and further that "the luxury brand is expected to reposition itself in the luxury watch category by the middle of ." That sounds suspiciously like a price change, and I have a feeling it will not be an increase. If I were to guess correctly I would say that moving forward Porsche Design timepieces will be a bit more accessibly priced with a focus on a more mainstream consumer. They won't be inexpensive, but more than likely less than they are now. Finding another partner like Eterna will be difficult, but it is possible that focusing on a more mainstream appeal will help their profitability. At current Porsche Design watch prices there is an awful lot of competition. Though aBlogtoWatch readers know we have often been a champion of the brand as well as the role Eterna played in it.
Inside the MB&F HM5 RT watch is a unique automatic movement designed by the team at Swiss Chronode. The disc that indicates the hours "jumps" to indicate the time more precisely. Visible through the rear of the case, you can see the MB&F battleaxe style automatic rotor in 22k red gold.
SM: So far I do not possess one. Right now I'm happily sporting our Tourbillon Earth and building my collection of Armin Stroms. I believe part of the passion of the watch industry is to constantly seek new innovations and designs.
Jeremy C. from Singapore asks:
Another reason sellers do this is to protect certain watch distributors or authorized dealers. Most watches sold online at a discount are not done so with the blessings of the brands. Many watches sold online aren't offered by a private owner, but rather a gray market dealer. These dealers mostly get their watches directly from authorized dealers or distributors. Often because they can't sell normally.
Chopard has taken a great interest in this cause as part of its "The Journey to Sustainable Luxury" agenda. The Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon QF is a testament to the companies commitment–but what does it mean to the end consumer?
You'll notice that there has been no mention of vintage watches. We don't really consider them a separate category because at one point they too feel into one of these categories when they were new. While we generally tend to advice against the purchase of most vintage watches for most people, they can be an enjoyable and emotionally pleasing investment for many people. Our main reasons against getting old watches is because (depending on how old they are) they are more fragile, less mechanically sound, and often too small for modern tastes. That means more care and money into their upkeep. But again, it really depends on the specific watch as well as the owner.
In 2008 Carl. F Bucherer released their first in-house movement with the caliber A1000 (debuted on aBlogtoWatch here). Since then the A1000 (with its cool peripheral automatic rotor) and its derivatives have been the basis of many Patravi collection timepieces. Though, not in this one. That is because the first Patravi TravelTec GMT watch was released in 2006, and later in this "FourX" variant. Even though it doesn't strictly have an in-house movement, it does specially modify the base ETA, offering something unique.
Of course the answer will depend on whether or not Rolex can do it "differently," in a very high quality and exclusive way. The most important issue to Rolex is that they may appear to simply be following the trend set by companies they do not themselves authorize. Rolex customizers have no official relationship with Rolex. One of the reasons that new custom Rolex watches are so expensive is that the companies that make them first need to purchase the watches themselves, and then modify them, and then sell them and make some profit. Of course, these companies have discreet relationships with Rolex dealers so they aren't paying full retail, but in any event, the price for a custom Rolex watch is still very high today.