Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical double tourbillon movement, hand-wound, 42 jewels, diameter 37.3 mm, thickness 8.35 mm, power reserve 90 h, double barrel, 21,600 vibrations/h
Functions: local hours and minutes, GMT hours and minutes, double tourbillon
Movement decoration: nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with superlative Haute
Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges,
fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, plate dial
side with Côtes de Genève, circular satin-finished wheels with
hand-chamfered and polished edges, blued screws with bevelled and
Tourbillon: 18-carat red gold bridges, satin-finished and mirror-
polished surfaces with hand-chamfered and polished edges
Hand-chamfered and mirror-polished tourbillon cages
Dial: domed and white lacquered
Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter 43.5 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m
Strap: Hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather
Limited edition: 250th Anniversary, 28 timepieces
With a such a small group, watch-spotting opportunities were limited but the group was sporting a bevy of MLs - from the new Pontos S Supercharged to a Pontos S Diver rocking a clean three-stripe NATO. There was some non-ML fare to be seen as well, including an old and well-loved steel Datejust, a Panerai Luminor and no fewer than two Casio Rangemans (with no prior communication, Andre and I brought the same watch - go figure).
I ask Francois if he feels it is difficult to steer the brand in a direction that both appeals to engineering-minded watch lovers as well as design lovers interested in the elegance of an Audemars Piguet product. A brand like Audemars Piguet has a history of producing some of the world’s most impressive mechanical watches, but is also a design leader today thanks to its ionic Royal Oak collection of watches designed by the famed Gerald Genta as well as thanks to their esteemed head of design Mr. Octavio Garcia.
3. Rolex Cellini Time: Return Of The Crown’s Dress Watch
With the visage of Transformer Optimus Prime or Bumblebee on the dial, it is arguably easy to scoff at the themes presented here which are then combined with a tourbillon. Then again, these aren't 0,000 watches or anything close to that. No, and brands like Memorigin are making products aimed at aging Generation Y and Millennials who are either finally making disposable income or have some family money to spend and want products that comment on the things that inspire them. It might be silly to see Batman or other comic book and movie characters on a watch dial... but is it any more silly in concept than watches inspired by someone's racing, flying, or diving fantasies?
Instead, brands continue to consolidate their collections and gradually release models as line extensions or updates to existing pieces. These timepieces focus on maximum "retail-ability" but aren't always the most exciting for brand voyeurs. Nevertheless, there is plenty to discuss based on what we saw at SIHH 2014, and over the next few months aBlogtoWatch will gradually present you with a number of hands-on looks at the most interesting and beautiful watches of the show.
The 6502 is probably the dressiest piece in the collection, but these are all still sport watches. The Modern Mariner Automatics have beefy steel cases that are 45mm wide and water resistant to 200 meters. Not all Luminox watches have sapphire crystals, but these watches do - with AR coating for increased legibility. You also have elements like the 24 hour scale on the dial that many people in military service prefer as they go by 24 hour, versus 12 hour time.
Talking about wearing comfort seems like a good way to discuss what is my favorite new Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk watch for 2014. This is the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue, and it is marked by a dominantly blue dial with orange accents and orange and black bezel. The rotating diver's bezel has inset vulcanized rubber and the 0-15 minute markers used orange rubber versus black.
They also wrote a standard for dive watches, called the ISO 6425 divers' watches standard. This standard covers the much more extreme depths a dive watch can be subjected to. They start at 30cm, perform temperature shock, condensation testing, and overpressure at 125% of the rated pressure.
With this preamble, the watch I want to discuss here with the aBlogtoWatch.com readers is their latest, the Garmin D2 (direct-to). This is a purpose-built watch for pilots with all the necessary functions and features that an amateur and professional pilot would need. Sure it's not a mechanical watch in the tradition of the Breitling Navitimer 01, but this is one quartz GPS-enabled pilot watch you might want own. Let's see why that is.
What exactly is a "Rolex Oyster Professional" watch? Most Rolex watches produced today use the brand's Oyster case which embodies years of development that started with the original Rolex Oyster watch from 1926. At the time Rolex pioneered the first ever watch case with screw down crown, bezel, and caseback that offered water resistance and dust protection, though it was not until 1953 that the Professional Collection was born.
Speaking of the strap, you'll notice that the Trasmissione Meccanica has little metal wedges under the strap where they meet the case. These are there for comfort, and to prevent the straps from pulling down too far and looking bad. This also helps retain a nice flowing design from case to strap. Anyhow, we need to take a look at this seriously interesting case. Produced from steel, the 43mm wide case is available in either natural brushed steel or PVD gunmetal steel (also with a brushed finish). The sawtooth style cuts on the side of the case are meant to look like those distinctively angled transmission gears.
Before he came along, the rattrapante only existed at the highest end of watch complications, rivaling the minute repeater in terms of the skill and assembly finesse required to produce it. Yes it is true, in case you did not know, the split second chronograph is often considered to be the most difficult complication to produce. If you had wanted a split seconds chronograph at that time, you would have paid a frightening price for it. The rattrapante only existed in the collections of watch companies of the highest level. The problem therefore, faced by IWC at the time, was the desire to produce a split seconds chronograph for mass production at a lower price - and Mr. Habring was working for them.
ABTW: Do you serve mostly locals or tourists, or is it a good mix? Also, what percentage of your customers would you call "knowledgeable watch collectors?"
Something that is easy to see and enjoyable in the in-house made and designed caliber DTC07 movement is the cylindrical balance spring. Unlike most normal "flat" balance (hair) springs, the one in the Maestoso is more three-dimensional and shaped like a cylinder. There are various advantages for this and a major reason they aren't used more is that they are not only difficult to produce, but the simple fact that cylindrical balance springs take up a lot more space than flat ones. While high-end watches today like to play with historic watch mechanics, we should not forget the principle goal of all wrist watches from the beginning was successfully miniaturizing clocks and pocket watches into not only a smaller space, but also a mobile space that needed to put up with shock and motion.
This is actually the second aBlogtoWatch Swatch Scuba Libre review. Our James Lamdin did an early review of the Scuba Libre Deep Turtle watch here. That is a slightly more traditional looking piece even though it is in black and green. The Chlorofish is one of a few "fish" versions of the Scuba Libre watch with skeletonzied dials that look pretty cool, if I may say. The Chlorofish combines a clear plastic case with a white strap and green accents on the dial. It is joined by other models such as Scuba Libre Cuttlefish in yellow and black, and Clownfish in white and orange.
The Titanium Auto's case is 42 mm wide and made, predictably, of lightweight titanium. Measuring 52 mm lug to lug and just 11.75 mm thick at the crest of its slightly-domed sapphire crystal, this Khaki Field iteration may be the most wearable in the line, weighing only 66g with the strap.
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The whole point of the transparent sapphire crystal bridges is to offer a view into their operation. The detent escapement is difficult to see, and honestly only serious watch movement lovers will know what they are looking at. Having said that a detent escapement makes a different sound than the regular ticking of a lever escapement watch and does have its own visual characteristics.
3. Wait until the giveaway is over on February 28, 2014 for the winner to be chosen at random.
For this release, Blancpain continued where they left off from last year's model and added what only can make this new version even more desirable to the public at large and to collectors alike. First, the Bathyscaphe now has an in-house manufacture movement, F385, that beats at 5Hz with a silicon balance spring which provides the watch with anti-magnetic capabilities while still allowing one to view the movement with a transparent case-back.