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Comparing the watch releases of SIHH 2010 and Baselworld 2010, I would have to say that for the most part I was more impressed with the releases at SIHH, and it was a significantly smaller show. Why that is I am not sure, but here is another one of the good things that I spotted. This isn't just another Panerai watch, but rather the PAM339 in a special ceramic case. While it doesn't surprise me to see Panerai going ceramic, it just sort of happened without notice.

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3. Wait until the giveaway is over on September 1st, 2010 for the winner to be chosen at random.

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Oh Louis, how you tease us. Going back and forth between fascinating watch releases and not quite innovating enough for most watch heads to love you. I however have been a fan since the days when Tambour was a fresh name. Now the Tambour is the mainstay model for the brand, that is in need of more goods. In such an economy when brand name rules over brand value, Louis Vuitton could really be taking the Cartier route and upping their game. With the LVMH family of brands to help (such as Tag Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith), it could be a powerhouse high-end fashion watch brand. Until that day comes (or never does) we have to look at these quite rare creations from afar. My close interest with Louis Vuitton started with the Tambour Diver watch, a beautiful piece that really needs to be on more wrists (including my own). Though its high price and utter rarity on the used market hasn't made it part of my collection yet. Though if I really wanted, I could get it from Louis Vuitton's website for ,700 - ,500 depending on the strap - but I digress!

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The smallest version will be just 34mm wide and will contain the manually wound movement. It is a shrunken version of the Automatic mostly, with the date function removed.

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The Oarsman Hammer is another large watch at 45mm wide in steel. It is 49mm wide including the good looking large crown. While Cadence is an American company, they almost proudly indicate on the back of their watches that they are "Invented in [the] USA. Made in China." Their OEM partners aren't half bad. The case, while a bit generic in style, is nevertheless comfortable, and arrives with a nice satin finish all around. It has 50 meters of water resistance, and Cadence gave the watch one of those sapphire coated mineral crystals.

You can't have an oil filled mechanical watch - at least no that I know of. So you are stuck with quartz, which isn't so bad. It does make changing the battery a pain in the ass though. When the battery dies, you need to send the watch back to Patton. Though, Patton has thoughtfully included a 10 year lithium ion battery in the watch. So battery changes aren't gonna be that frequent.

Hermès alligator, deployment buckle in 18 ct white gold, polished finish.

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Selecting The Right Diving Watch….

IWC has a really interesting history, and I won’t try to sum it up here. The brand was actually started by an American, and occurred at the time when Swiss labor was actually cheaper than American labor — at least this is my understanding. Since that time (a long time ago), the brand has transformed a lot, and currently under Richemont Group ownership, thrives as one of the most well-respected luxury watch brands around. The exact details of when the brand started to current day IWC apparently were unknown to any one person. So IWC decided to put together a book to document its history. Which is what this new (and massive) IWC book is all about - and it is called "IWC: Engineering Time Since 1868."

What you really have is a true luxury instrument. It is luxury in the sense excess and lack of necessity are luxurious, but it is a instrument all the same. Marginally useful, but it still has its uses. It is a toy for those who like expensive toys. No one looking for a "men's accessory" is gonna pick up one of these. When I met with Urwerk I think they did tell me the price of the limited edition UR-CC1. To be honest I forgot the price, but at the same time it makes little different. In the healthy six figures, most people can't afford the watch, and that pretty much sums it up. I love that Urwerk does this stuff and works hard to make their dreams real. True micro mechanical geniuses, they create amazing things - perhaps with intentional limited appeal. urwerk.com

There are a number of very cool, technical looking Jaeger-LeCoultre watches that were available, but according to Jaeger-LeCoultre here is what is in the movie. I will have to see the film and determine if there are even more JLC watches in it.Regardless, here are the pieces of Jaeger-LeCoultre "Wrist Armor" in Iron Man 2.

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Three hand AT watches have a particularly delightful to view face. The design is calming, and feels like a perfect mix between occupied and uncluttered. The font for the Arabic numerals is interesting, while the colors used are soothing. A real low-key visage in a "notice me body." Without the fun colors, the AT collection wouldn't quite be what it is. While the designs that can only be described as "confident but relaxed" won't appeal to everyone, it hard to argue that these watches aren't well-designed.  The chronograph AT models take a different direction, and feel very different than the three-hand models. The very symmetrical dial uses a bisected series of chronograph subdials that simply use both sides of the hand to read out information. Inside both of the watches are Swiss ETA movements. An ETA caliber F06 for the three-hander, and an ETA caliber 251.471 for the chronograph model.

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The Tambour watch case has been seeing new life recently in hard to find watches with unique complications. Louis Vuitton is trying to assert themselves a bit as being a more serious watch maker by doing a bit more than placing an ETA movement in a pretty watch. This clever Spin Time GMT watch is a clever take on telling the time, built on top of a base ETA automatic movement (likely a 2893). The module has 12 cubes and turn around showing an Arabic numeral when it is that cubes "turn" to indicate the hour. Consider it an interesting variation on a jumping hour watch. Now, it get a little bit more complex. Each cube has numbers on the top and bottom. These are AM and PM times, but in 24 hour format. So the cube for 2pm, has a "2" on it, and a "14" on the other side of it when it is PM  time. Just grasp for a moment the meaning of all that.  To tell the time, you first search for the cube with an exposed number, and then track the minute hand traditionally.

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What will amaze you about the watch is the straight forward, simple presentation of the information and the complication. While not an easy watch to make, F.P. Journe makes it seem easy by having it all work so well, and smoothly. The watch features the time in a digital display, with jumping hours and jumping minutes. Mechanical digital watches are proving to be quite popular, and the mechanism is usually governed by a constant force escapement that makes sure the power from the mainspring barrel is used properly. The movement itself is the in-house made and designed F.P. Journe Calibre 1509, and is really gorgeous. Aside from jumping minutes and hours, it has a power reserve indicator for the manually wound movement, and a traditional subsidiary seconds dial. Like I mentioned in the previous article on the Vagabondage II watch, it most resembles the A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk in terms of functionality (that was released around the same time). Though the two watches are visually very different.

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The Divers Date comes in a few color styles. With the black dial, blue dial, and black dial with the partially red bezel. There are also lume dial (that look greenish), in the titanium versions. They should glow like mofos. The standard lume on the watch is actually bluish, which is nice. If you look closely you will notice a wave pattern texture on the dial that also looks good (similar to what you'd find on a Omega Seamaster 300m). Oris is unique for having its arrow head (sort of) style hour markers and the similar looking baton hands. Oris segments the hour hand to make it stand out from the hour hand more. I admit that marketing images like this of the watch do not do it justice. Google "Oris Diver Date" for owner images and reviews. You'll be sure it is a nice watch then, and you can really see how curvy and chunky the case is. A real professional tool as so many watches wish they could be.