One of the most beautiful racing-themed watches for 2014 is a limited edition chronograph from Oris, created to celebrate their partnership with Audi Sport racing (the race team arm of Audi). Known as the Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition ref. 01 774 7661 7481, the watch is very much part of the larger Oris Artix racing chronograph collection, but with a very appealing mixture of finishes and materials. It is also one of the very few watches I know of that has a very legible silver-toned dial – which immediately makes it unique and appealing, in my opinion.
ABTW: You must have been exposed to quite a variety of watches there - what was your first grail watch?
What is a deadbeat seconds complication? For those who don't already know, it is simply explained by saying that it is a ticking seconds hand in a mechanical watch. Ticking seconds hands are normally reserved for quartz watches – at least that is how they are known in more modern watches. Historically, however, ticking seconds hands existed on certain high precision clocks sometimes known as regulator clocks. These clocks were used in scientific labs or to help regulate the time of other clocks. Ticking seconds hands make it much easier to count the seconds when that is important. Recently, thanks to brands like Arnold & Son, the dead seconds hand (which has other names as well) has been popping up more frequently, and watching them in action is far more elegant than seeing ticking seconds hands on quartz watches.
Jack educated his son Barney in the art of watchmaking and repair, and the two formed a partnership that would become the foundation for the present day Feldmar Watch Company. They started selling out of the Stack Building in Los Angeles in the 1930's and have been in their current location at 9000 West Pico Boulevard since 1956.
The Nomos website describes all their watches as unisex, but that description is perhaps most fitting to the Nomos Tetra collection. The Nomos Tetra’s square 29.5mm case is 6.3mm thick and fits well on wrists of various sizes. When a woman with a six inch wrist puts it on, it takes up a large percentage of the wrist and almost looks like a sports watch. On a slender man’s wrist, it takes up much less space and the tone of the watch is much more formal.
One of the most exciting brands in high-end watchmaking today is Arnold & Son. Not only are their watches exquisitely made, they are also highly complicated. But perhaps most importantly, they have, in a relatively short span of the time, managed to create their own instinctive style that makes it easy to recognize a watch as theirs. One of their most interesting pieces is the Time Pyramid watch, so-called because the movement is arranged in such a way that it looks like a pyramid. In our review of this unique-looking piece we discuss more about the brand itself as well as the countless interesting details of the Time Pyramid.
Martin Pulli is a traditional jeweler with a long history of superlative service and uncompromising quality. Martin’s interest in vintage jewelry began with exposure through the family business, now affectionately known as "picking." Twenty years of immersion in the business, lifestyle, and culture of vintage jewelry, watches, and antiques became the foundation for a retail showroom in a unique historical walking district of Philadelphia. Martin opened his eponymous shop in 1989 and added watches in 1999. Nowadays, they have become his major focus.
Our team has for long been intrigued by the idea of the smartwatch and so we have always been excited to bring you the latest, greatest – and sometimes arguably weird – concepts. The smartwatch is a product with immense potential, even if for the most part we have been seeing more optimistic promises than actual deliveries from the countless minor and major brands who have tried to reinvent the "wearable technology."
We all agree that this new limited edition – exclusive to Florence – Panerai PAM00604 watch is a great way to enjoy the core design aesthetic of the historically Italian dive watch brand with a new artistic angle. Panerai has taken its most seminal Radiomir case and dial design and combined it with a reliable Panerai P.3000 manually wound hours and minutes only movement, as well as a case which has been totally hand-engraved. At 47mm wide on the wrist, it wears boldly but comfortably in the Radiomir case, and the black-filled engravings are tasteful yet something most people would not expect from the typically simple Panerai wearing experience. It isn’t cheap at 17,000 Euros, or easy to buy, given that only 99 will be made for the Panerai flagship store in Firenze, Italy (Florence) – but this is a piece we think Panerai collectors will fawn over with ease. panerai.com
Richard Mille RM 11 Bracelet
Essentially, the Eterna KonTiki Diver has two issues: the name on the dial and the price. Never mind how interesting or high quality the case and construction were, Eterna was (and to a degree still is) a rather obscure brand and the KonTiki Diver was priced rather high, at over ,000. There are still some of these watches out there, and I think that for the price they are a bargain for the awesome design that you get. Eterna didn't want to give up on the KonTiki Diver, since the design was just so cool - and I agree of course that it was. So what happened?
This isn't new to watches or Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Gyrotourbillon II has a cylindrical balance spring, and the Gyrotourbillon III even had a spherical balance wheel. In some applications, these exotically shaped balance wheels can help with better chronometry. In this case, I just think it looks very cool - and most people agree that it really does. The overall movement is the in-house made Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 382, and it fits into the Duometre family. That means it has a mainplate produced from German silver, and also that separates the power going to the time telling mechanism from the mainspring that powers the other complications. Thus the caliber 382 has two mainspring barrels and a total power reserve of 50 hours.
Inside the Layer watch is a Japanese automatic mechanical movement which is visible through a transparent caseback window. Namely, the movement is the Seiko caliber NH35A automatic, which offers the time and date. The four color versions of the Minus-8 Layer include the Layer Black-Silver, Black-Red, Black-Gold, and Gray. Each has attractive traditional proportions with an undeniably modern design unique to the brand. Retail price for the Minus-8 Layer watch is 8 and you have a chance to win one this month on aBlogtoWatch by entering below. minus8watch.com
As far as the technical details are concerned, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1948 is virtually identical to its predecessors in the Tribute collection. The steel case is their “Grande Ultra Thin” size, and is interchangeable with the Tribute To 1931 models, sized at 46.8mm in length by 27.4 in diameter, with a thickness of 7.3mm. As with the other pieces in the collection, water resistance is at an absolute minimum, with a 3 Bar rating. The Grand Ultra Thin case size was also used on the Boutique Edition Rouge and on the 1931 Chocolate (but in solid 18k pink gold).
This one is for the ladies! Patek Philippe’s Ref. 4936 not only features a jaw-dropping design, but it is also packed with functionality. Sparkling with 170 diamonds set into the case and crown, this ladies' Annual Calendar draws your eye in to look even closer. Protected inside the 37mm yellow gold case, a white mother of pearl dial is accented with gold Roman numerals, which tie the watch together beautifully.
Building a smartly designed ultra-slim watch that checks all of the boxes is a tall order for most manufactures. I do have a singular gripe, and that is that I would loved to have seen the blued steel hands used on other models in the Heritage collection make an appearance on the steel model Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Ultra Slim – but that’s just personal aesthetic preference speaking. Beyond that, this piece is in my opinion damn near perfect.
But let's not rush so far ahead in time: the first of the book's five chapters is titled "The Watchmaker" and, after a short introduction to the history of Swiss watchmaking, it details the more important dates in Kari's life and career, starting from his birth in 1962 through his application to the highly regarded WOSTEP school of watchmaking in 1989, until 2002, when he finally set up shop in Môtiers, following a few years of working with Parmigiani Fleurier and teaching at WOSTEP.
An initial inspection of what was debuted in terms of smartwatches at CES 2015 doesn't actually show huge amounts of technological innovation, but rather a great focus on fitness wearables and products that people who are even remotely design conscious want to wear. One lesson that brands are learning is that wearables that merely serve as phone notification devices aren't extremely interesting. Having said that, companies are still including phone notification functions into even their most simple products. More so, whether you want a wearable device to sit next to your watch or in place of a traditional watch - companies have you covered. Garmin's line up also focuses on men as well as women. The message for me is that Garmin knows it has strength in the smartwatch market, but still has no idea what products will stick with consumers.
Sure, the barely visible chain, the 0.25 gram tourbillon cage, and the hand applied decorations are rather difficult to admire, but worry not, as A. Lange & Söhne literally animated the dial and its chronometer layout subdials with a neat little addition: as you can see on the image above, minutes are displayed on the larger subdial toward the top of the dial, while – creating an isosceles triangle – hours and seconds are shown on the two lower subdials. However, the two subdials would overlap each other, distracting the view at the painstakingly adorned tourbillon in operation.
Ultimately, if you are sitting on the fence and having trouble deciding between the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR and Ref. 116710LN, I’m going to give you a very cliche but effective advice: go and try both of them on. I keep going back to this, but it is a very important aspect of the Ref. 116710BLNR, and the way the bezel plays with light needs to be experienced first-hand. Finally, to sum both watches up in a sentence, I would say that the Ref. 116710LN is classic and practical, and the Ref. 116710BLNR is a little bit more fun and special. The Rolex GMT-Master II 116710BLNR has a list price of $8950. rolex.com
Rudy Chavez: My name is Rudy Chavez and I am the President of Baume & Mercier, North America.