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This Islandus 44mm watch includes a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. Though, it is the top grade version of the movement which means something else than the basic 2824 caliber. So what is different? Well first is material and finishing. The parts are made better and there is a lot of noticeable finishing and decoration enhancements on the top grade pieces. Second is the oils and lubricants. This helps the parts work together better and last longer. In a nutshell, these higher-grade version of the stock ETA movements are better made, nicer to look at, and designed to last a bit longer.

My credentials established, let's dive in.

There is also a nostalgic element to design. Brands want their watches to feel timeless and familiar to wearers. Use of a font people are familiar with and have likely seen other places is usually a simple way to win people's attention versus coming up with something new and fresh that will wow people. By and large watch design is rather conservative, with people mostly tweaking or mixing around existing designs versus coming up with something untested.


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As I look at these pieces a sadness comes over me. Why you ask? Well because I can just hear a bunch of sleeze-tongued acolyte-minded fashion-types gushing reprehensibly at how amazing watches in the Breguet Tradition collection are. It is true that the watches are amazing, but those people don't know why. These watches are easy to enjoy visually, but I sort of want them to be more underground, because it takes a true education and long understanding of horology to appreciate timepieces of this caliber. Whatever, if you have the money buy whatever you like. Just know what you are getting.

A. Proper Materials

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OMEGA's Speedmaster Mark 4.5

We develop continuously and in parallel. What is interesting in this process – and what is pretty frustrating for me – is that for example in December last year I unveiled HM5 which was at the time, a world premiere. For me it is a four and a half years old project! [laughs] Virtually old stuff! So when it is presented, I am of course enthusiastic and tell people how proud I am of it. And I am proud. But I’m working on HM8 – as HM6 and 7 are virtually finished – and on LM5 and LM6 as LM2, LM3 and LM4 are virtually finalized also. Products which you are going to see in 6-7 years. That is what gets my adrenaline pumping.

The handmade watch is truly a thing to behold. Handmade objects always retain the idiosyncrasies of the creator, which is one of the things that make them stand apart from a mass produced item. Take the dial for instance. Under a loupe you can see how the engravings of the markers are slightly askew, and little things like the markers are not always the same size. These little signs are evidence of a human creator, and much like hand-writing, imbues a personality and character to the watch that hearkens to the days before precision machines existed. Every curve cut into metal was directed by the human eye and fashioned with tools from the human hand. A laser engraved dial would be more accurate, but it would be like all the others and just not the way that Roger Smith does things.

My Top 5 Omega Speedmaster Watches

As with any watch brand, it is crucial to not only focus on their flagship designs, such as Bremont's HMS Victory, but also on their "entry level" models. A brand's most modestly priced model must often be their most concentrated design. When planning a more expensive model, there is a latitude or buffer that does not exist under the constraints of creating a laser-focused introduction to one's brand.

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Breitling Aerospace Evo Watch E7936310/C869 Hands-On

Breitling Aerospace Evo Watch E7936310/C869 Hands-On

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Now before I carry on, I believe that I need to make some clarifications for you, our international audience.

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High-Speed MOMO Design Time

Arguably even more iconic than the Submariner, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is just about as important a watch as there will ever be.  It was worn on the moon, for chrissakes!

I have no clue if Mr. DiCaprio or Miss Diaz are horological aficionados, or if they are even knowledgeable about timepieces... So seeing their pictures on a TAG advertisement just makes me feel that the brand is simply banking heavily on the modern day infatuation with Hollywood stars to sell their watches.

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Blancier Grand Cru Watch With Nespresso Capsule Dial

Blancier Grand Cru Watch With Nespresso Capsule Dial

The inlaid markers make for a more three dimensional dial view and the white dial retains some of the military feel of the original Solo while offering a distinct appeal. The finishing of the dial is excellent and easily viewed through the distortion and glare-free sapphire crystal. Bremont has their own anti-reflective treatment for their crystals which consists of nine layers of treatment on each side of the crystal which is then hardened for increased scratch resistance.

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