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The Cal 1141, a lightly-modified Lemania 2320, is a movement befitting for a fine chronograph. Still used by Vacheron Constantin today, the Lemania 2320 is a descendent of the movement used in the first Omega Seamaster Professionals, the Omega Cal 321. While not an in-house movement by any stretch, the Lemania 2320 has been used by only a select group of brands: Breguet, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Ulysee Nardin. Classically structured with a column wheel and horizontal switching, the movement beats at a leisurely 18,000 v.p.h. (2.5 Hz). Traditionalists will appreciate that the Cal 1141 comes equipped with a Breguet overcoil and a finely-polished Swan’s neck regulator, while modernists will scoff at the absence of a proper seconds hack. The 48 hour power reserve is adequate, but not sufficient to keep the watch running if it is stuffed into a drawer and left unwound over the weekend. This particular example runs a bit fast, with an average gain of around 7 seconds per day. This is acceptable for a dress watch that does not pretend to be a chronometer.
>Price: 00 USD
>Size: 43 x 13.5mm (49.5 mm lug to lug)
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: The guy or gal looking for a tough but luxurious aviator-inspired automatic with a bright white dial.
>Best characteristic of watch: The pairing of the bright white dial with Bremont's Trip-Tick case and excellent crystal
[Update: July 8, 2014 - While we value the quality of their product, in light of recent events, aBlogtoWatch will no longer cover RGM products and cannot endorse RGM as a company. - Ed. ] What's This?
Francois informed us that the system to move the discs wasn't quite done yet and that 4N was going to use the services of expert watch movement design house Renaud & Papi. In early 2013 I finally got to see the finished version of the 4N-MVT01/D01 limited edition watch. About four years of work for just 16 watches. In reality though 4N will produce some additional versions in the future, but the first 16 will always be a reminder of the efforts and the challenges of designing new types of mechanical movements.
The remarkably balanced dial is so easy on the eyes it makes you wonder why there aren't 1000 copycats. It is quite fantastic and offers a sort of unrivaled vintage looking instrumentality which feels more suited to gadget loving men than the usually stark and simple dials of most tuxedo or dress watches. Turn the 1815 Up/Down over and you'll get the typical Lange treat - a pleasant unhindered view of the in-house made mechanical movement (with hand-engraved balance cock!).
With a love of design that he inherited from his father, Giles Ellis has a resume that includes restoring vintage musical instruments, designing components for bicycles, and even creating custom furniture. Schofield is another outlet for his personal style and they operate to offer a very cohesive, distinctive and holistic approach to the luxury watch experience. With a range of products beyond their core watches, Schofield is defined by their interesting use of high grade materials, old world charm, balanced design and a definitively English voice.
Round-Up By Kenny Yeo
4. Cars Change, Watches Don’t: Looking At Cadillacs & Rolex Over The Years
In-house manufacture movement calibre
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 60-hours
Number of jewels: 30 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 333
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Highest level haute horlogerie finishing, including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand bevelled and polished bridges and plates.
Three patents pending
The price for the John Varvatos edition of the Ernst Benz Chronoscope has a premium over the standard Chronoscope models - even other limited editions. Aside from the fashion label name, it is reasonable to ask what you are getting. Well for one thing you get the unique hands and dial treatments. The case also features the vintage style rectangular chronograph pushers versus the more simple round "plunger" style pushers. The straps are also unique for these timepieces. Another interesting thing to note is that there really isn't a gray market for the Varvatos pieces. While you can get Ernst Benz pieces online at discounts, the Varvatos pieces are hard to come by, and only available online via the official John Varvatos store.
Furthermore, the bracelet is well designed and solid – with minimal play at the end links and a two-button deployment that works very well. My only criticism here would be the lack of micro-adjustments, along with expanding pin construction instead of screwed links. The lack of a bracelet adjustment tool would make proper fitment a pain in the ass, and for a piece priced at over 00 I would have expected screwed links. That criticism aside, the bracelet wears very comfortably, and the combination of brushed and polished elements gives it a distinguished appearance.
Furthermore, like the actual moon watch, the .861 features a manual winding movement – a must have feature on a Speedmaster Professional. .861 Speedmasters started being manufactured en masse before the moon landing and the movement is still used in a modified form today. There are plenty of them out there on the secondary market to choose from, however the most desirable versions are the 1968-1969 “Pre Moon” Speedmasters with the traditional Omega Seahorse case back engraving, or the 1969-1970 versions with the “First Watch Worn On The Moon” case back. Subsequent models (including those still manufactured today) feature a much busier case back with additional printing which are much more commonly found on the secondary market.
Eric Giroud (EG): I am the owner and designer of Through the Looking Glass.